

You can see samples of my resurfacing work on my website, If you're wondering why I use relatively coarse blast media, it's for better friction to compensate for plastic or age-hardened rubber tape rollers.Ģ. I have two sandblasters, and use 70 grit aluminum oxide blast media with excellent results. The human hand simply can't apply enough pressure for sandpaper to bite into the steel capstan post - and even if it could, it's impossible to miss the bearing surfaces which of course must remain shiny. A sandblaster is absolutely essential for proper capstan resurfacing.
#Akai 726d tapedeck professional#
I repair roughly (200) 8 track units per year and can offer some input from a true professional (yes I earn my living doing only 8 track work):ġ. This is Barry from Barry's 8 Track Repair (aka The 8 Track Repair Center). Hi Steve, and thanks for posting a picture of the unit I custom built for Steve Bennett's 2013 Charger. Use several swabs to be sure the solution is completely cleaned off of the shaft.Ĭlean the head while you have it open and you are set to play some 8-tracks.

Thoroughly clean the solution off the capstan shaft with the cleaner. Again, activate the power switch and start the capstan running. If you have either our Head Cleaner or Rubber Cleaner, soak a cleaning swab in the solution. Release the switch and let the unit sit for 5 minutes. Put enough solution onto the shaft to coat it all the way around. Avoid getting the solution into either the top or bottom bearing of the shaft. With the capstan spinning, apply a cotton cleaning swab, soaked with the Capstan Restorer solution to “ONLY” the section of the capstan that contacts the tape. Lifting this switch will turn the tape drive on and start the capstan spinning. You will see a switch on the top back edge of the tape cartridge holder assy. In this case you will need to do the cleaning through the front door of the unit. In some unit there may be a circuit board in the way. You should be able to see the capstan shaft where it comes into contact with the tape. Start by taking the top cover off the unit when possible. As I suspect & believe it is a form/type of acid.ģ90FE is right on about using caution as it can cause damage. After the application & you see it is etched (can tell by it turning dull grey) clean any extra off. I would suggest putting the chemical on a Q-Tip so you can give a more precision application without it getting on parts it is not ment to get on. I got a cassette deck that someone had used the chemical on & some ran down into the pinch roller axle & seized it up. If doing the chemical etching you need to be very careful as to NOT get ANY of the chemical on ANY OTHER parts OR too far down the capstan/too close to the capstan bushing/bearing as IT WILL corrode & rust up parts & cause them to seize up. And make sure you mask off the area that rides in the capstan bushing/bearing & a touch past the bearing so the capstan is smooth in the bearing area as it should & needs to be. If doing the media blasting use glass beads on low pressure as sand woud be too harsh IMEO. I need to CAUTION you all on EITHER method of returning the matted finish to the capstan (and for that matter NOT all capstans had a matted grey finish).
